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Here are some photos taken during the build of a 'Highlander 11'. This is a design from the drawing board of Paul Fisher of Selway Fisher Design. (www.selway-fisher.com)

(1) The hull planks being planed square in handed pairs. (2) As the boat is 11' long and plywood comes in 8' x 4' sheets it was necessary to join the planks together. I used simple butt straps to do this. The next photo shows a plank with the butt strap during gluing. Excess glue scrapes off easily when it has cured. Remember to put plastic under the plank or it'll stick to the surface underneath. (3) The next photo shows weights on top of the hull planks ensuring adequate pressure is applied. I glued them together in handed pairs. (4) The bow section is made of two pieces of plywood glued together. (5) The transom after gluing - again double thickness to provide the necessary strength for use with an outboard. (6) The flip-up rudder ready for the pivot bolt to be fitted when the cheek is placed over the top of this.

(7) Looking towards the stern the hull planks being stitched together. The centreboard case and centre frame are assembled before it is stitched in. (8) The hull panels towards the bow are stitched together. To make the timber more supple towels with boiling water poured over them were wrapped round the hull planks. As the timber is under more stress towards the bow the stitches are closer together. (9) Once the boat is stitched together I checked it wasn't twisted. I then primed the seams with epoxy before filling them with thickened epoxy. When this had cured I removed the stitches. The next job was to apply more epoxy to the seams and then set the glass tape. (10) All stitching complete!

(11) Shows the small skeg to increase directional stability on the boat and the bilge runners. (12) To make the thwarts I made cardboard templates and traced them onto the plywood. I have extended the bow and stern thwarts for built in buoyancy. I fitted an access hatch to the forward frame. This means the space can be used for storing equipment. If any damage occurs it makes inspection and repair easier. Before final painting I coated the boat with 2 coats of epoxy resin. The boat was painted using 'International' paints. 2 coats of 'Epiglass' epoxy resin, 2 coats of Primocon, 2 coats of Pre-Kote and 3 coats of Brightside. The wood was varnished. (13) The wheels fitted to the skeg at the stern enable me to launch it myself. I can lift the boat at the bow and roll her down the slipway. (14) Finished and ready for launch.